3DO:3DO Model Differences

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Page content & researching collaboratively taken from io55.net's 3DO page with permission.

There are three 3DO models, and two revisions within two of these models.

Models + Revisions

Models are arranged chronologically. Revisions are underneath their respective model.

“Panasonic FZ-1” (1993-1994/95?)

The original 3DO, easily identified by it’s four “columns” at each corner. This model's front-loading disc tray can have reliability issues, while the system in general doesn't seem to be particularly less or more in the reliability department. When looking at the rarity of the MPEG card, the FZ-1's is not extremely uncommon. Altering or removing savegames on this system requires a memory manager disc. Production quality and “feel” of this system may be somewhat superior to others. Installation of certain hardware mods is also easier in these. No detachable power cord.

“Matte Top” (1993/94?)

Here, the top of the console is matte and rough. Furthermore, the console uses active cooling instead of passive cooling. The drives are manufactured a bit earlier.

“Shiny Top” (1993-1994/95?)

This 3DO has a top which is shiny and smooth, while also using a passive cooling mechanism compared to the Matte Top’s active cooling. Lastly, the drive is manufactured a bit later.


“Goldstar GDO-101M” (1994-1996)

Typically recognized by the “GoldStar” logo on front, paired with the gray circle on the top of this system. These are notorious for having a DVD tray which frequently fails. Furthermore, some games will run into compatibility issues on this version. The one benefit is that the MPEG hardware card is easiest to find for these, supposedly.


“Panasonic FZ-10” (1994-1996)

Can be identified by it’s top loading DVD tray and it’s “sleeker” console-esque design. Savegames can be managed directly on the console, requiring no disc. However, the build quality is commonly stated to be poorer, and the MPEG card is extremely difficult to find for this model. Reliability is unknown, akin to the FZ-1, although as time goes on, the reliability debate appears to favor the FZ-10s. Has a detachable power cord.

“Pre-Anvil” (1994-1995)

On these models, all the system chips are separate and not “merged” together, which will come into play in a moment. One important impact of this, is that it's easier to RGB mod this revision. Furthermore, some say that this makes homebrewing and hacking of these systems possible, which is not the case on “Anvil” systems. Some also say these were made up to August of 1995, but some say they were only made up to February of 1995. These probably have serial numbers which begin with 4.

“Anvil” (1995-1996)

Within this revision, the system chips have been merged together into one “Anvil” chip. This causes difficulty with RGB modding, and may also cause difficulty with homebrewing, hacking, and even game compatibility. Some say these began production in March of 1995, while some say these began production in September of 1995. Their serial numbers probably begin with 5.

References

https://gaminghistory101.com/2012/12/24/buying-guide-3do/

https://gamefaqs.gamespot.com/boards/918744-3do/63092338

https://www.reddit.com/r/3DO/comments/ach07a/fz1_or_fz10/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3DO/comments/f86g0e/fz10_question/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3DO/comments/i0ribz/which_model_should_i_get/

https://www.reddit.com/r/retrogaming/comments/52lka7/3do_console_variants/

https://forum.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?142571-I-want-to-get-a-3DO-a-reliable-one

https://forum.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?38224-3DO-which-model-is-best-FZ1-FZ10-Goldstar-Sanyo

https://forum.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?143059-FZ-1-3DO-systems-Differences-between-PAL-NTSC (FZ1 revision)