Xbox 360:RGH/S-RGH

S-RGH (Speeded-Up RGH) is an improved version of RGH2 which is far more reliable and quick. CoolRunner chips have too small of CPLDs to run S-RGH. While non-Xenon phat consoles can use S-RGH, it is unreliable and will not be covered here.

Equipment Needed

 * A compatible glitch chip:
 * X360ACE V1/V2/V3
 * DGX v1.0S
 * A PC running Windows Vista or later
 * A soldering iron, solder, flux, and Isopropyl alcohol with cotton swabs
 * Specific recommendatons can be found on this page
 * A NAND and glitch chip programmer:
 * xFlasher 360
 * NAND-X
 * JR-Programmer
 * Modified Matrix Flasher
 * Postfix Adapter v2 (for a Corona that needs a postfix adapter)
 * J-Runner with Extras
 * A NAND Backup with XeLL written to the console
 * Standard NAND
 * 4GB Corona

(Corona Only) Postfix Adapter
On later Corona motherboards, the trace to the bottom POST pad has been removed, so you need to use a postfix adapter to be able to attach a pogo pin to the POST connection underneath the CPU. Use the provided diagram to determine if you need one or not. As shown in the diagram, you can install it by carefully sliding the larger piece of the adapter onto the left side of the CPU (when looking at the CPU from a readable position). Gently press the PCB inward toward the CPU to depress the pogo pin, and slide the smaller PCB part over the other side of the CPU, interlocking the two PCBs together. Solder the four anchor points on the edges of the postfix adapter to prevent it from coming loose.

Programming the Glitch Chip

 * 1) Plug the cable from your programmer into the chip programmer.
 * 2) * If you are using an xFlasher, ensure the switch is set to.
 * 3) * CoolRunner: Slide switch on the CoolRunner to "PRG".
 * 4) Open J-Runner with Extras. Click "Program Timing File" in the upper left and select your console’s tab and the relevant radio button for RGH2.
 * 5) Click "Program". When complete, unplug the cable from the glitch chip.
 * 6) * Coolrunner: Set the switch back to "NOR".

Decrypting the NAND

 * 1) Connect Ethernet and power on the console. The glitch chip should blink once or more times, and then the console should start into XeLL RELOADED.
 * 2) Once XeLL finishes, it will display your CPU key and some other info. There is also an IP address.
 * 3) Enter the IP address into the box on the lower right of J-Runner and click "Get CPU Key". J-Runner will pull the info from the box, and decrypt the NANDs automatically.

Writing New NAND Image

 * 1) Power down the console, and connect your programmer to the motherboard.
 * 2) * If you are using an xFlasher, ensure the switch is set to  (for 4GB Corona) or   (for all other motherboards).
 * 3) In the upper right of J-Runner, ensure the   radio button is selected.
 * 4) Click  . This will take a few moments.
 * 5) Click.
 * 6) Disconnect your programmer when the process completes.
 * 7) Boot the console several times and ensure it boots consistently. If not, make sure your wiring is clean and neat and avoids noisy area. Run the wires near the X-Clamps for best results.
 * 8) Tune boot times if necessary.
 * 9) Return to the RGH main page and continue in the Cleaning Up section.

Tuning Boot Times
As the glitch chip pulses, a green debug light will flash a pattern. Using this pattern, we can know roughly how to adjust the tuning. Let's start with some examples. The ideal is slightly "below" the edge of Long/Short, closer to Short. You want to see more Short than Long cycles.

If you get good light behavior, mostly Short but also Long sometimes, but the console still does not boot well, try to recreate this scenerio with other timings/pulse length. If using Corona with Xecuter Postfix V2, try moving wire to a bigger number pad. This will allow you to adjust for the length of POST.


 * 2 Short Blinks, then Short
 * This means that the checks were passed, but the console failed to start.
 * The timing is probably is too low, or the pulse length is too large.
 * The timing is probably is too low, or the pulse length is too large.


 * 2 Short Blinks, then Long
 * This means that the checks failed.
 * The timing is probably too high, or the pulse length is too small.
 * The timing is probably too high, or the pulse length is too small.


 * 4 Short Blinks, then Long
 * This means there is a problem with RST wiring problem causing pulse length to be very big. Try to use alternate points or longer wire.
 * This means there is a problem with RST wiring problem causing pulse length to be very big. Try to use alternate points or longer wire.


 * No Light Blinks or Always On
 * This means either your wiring is bad, or the timing file was not written sucessfully.