Comparison of Power Supplies

Retro gaming has seen a resurgence in popularity in recent years, with gamers increasingly seeking out original consoles to play classic games on. However, one common issue that arises with these consoles is the availability and reliability of their power supplies. Original equipment manufacturer (OEM) power supplies are often no longer in production, making them scarce and expensive. This has led many gamers to turn to aftermarket power supplies, which can vary greatly in terms of performance and specifications. This guide aims to provide an overview of the power supply requirements and specifications for various retro consoles, and to offer advice on choosing aftermarket power supplies that are as close as possible to the original equipment.

Specifications should be confirmed by a member of wiki community, or a trustworthy source (See "Confirmed By" column).

Explanation of Terms
  Console:  

The name of the gaming console can be found in this column. An asterisk symbol (`*`) beside a console's name means that a Triad brand replacement power supply is listed by Firebrandx and/or Castlemania Games for this console. See the Triad Power Supplies page for more information.

  Voltage:  

A good analogy for “output voltage” (measured in "Volts", symbol: V) might be water flowing through a hose. Just like how the pressure of the water determines how fast water flows through the hose, the “output voltage” of a power supply determines how much electrical current can flow through a device. If the output voltage is too low, the console may not work properly, just like how a low-pressure hose may not be able to wash away dirt effectively. On the other hand, if the output voltage is too high, it may damage the console, just like how a high-pressure hose can damage delicate plants. The output voltage on the power supply must be within a specified range for the console to function correctly.

Generally speaking, the "Voltage" figure on the replacement power supply should match the specs of the OEM unit (see tables below) as closely as possible. There will be exceptions to this rule, and they will be highlighted in the "Notes" column.

  Amps:  

Amperage, which is measured in amps (A) or milliamps (mA), refers to the amount of potential electrical current that can be supplied by a power supply. To go back to the water pipe analogy, the amperage is like the width of the pipe, and determines how much water (electricity) can flow through at once. A higher amperage figure means that more current can flow, which is important for powering consoles or devices that require more energy.

It’s important to choose a power supply with enough amperage for your device – the console will only draw as much current as needed, so the A (or mA) figure on the replacement power supply can be higher than what the console requires (see below). However, the A/mA figure should not be lower than what the console requires, or else the power supply may overheat or even damage the console.

The figures below are taken from the console’s OEM power supply, and do not account for additional power draw caused by various modifications, flashcart devices, wireless controllers or similar after-market additions.

  Polarity:  

Polarity refers to the orientation of the positive and negative voltage in the power supply; kind of like the direction of traffic on a road. Just as traffic moves in one direction on a one-way street and in two directions on a two-way street, power also flows in a specific direction depending on the polarity.

There are two types of polarities: positive center polarity ad (C+) and negative center polarity (C-). They can be distinguished by the symbols which can be found, usually either on the power brick, or on the plug.



Centre-positive symbol



Centre-negative symbol

In the same way that cars going the wrong way on a one-way street can cause an accident, connecting a power supply with the wrong polarity can damage your console. To avoid damage to the console, the user should inspect the symbol on their power supply and ensure that it polarity matches the polarity of the corresponding console (see table below).

  Avg Power Draw:  

Average power supply, which is measured in watts (W), can be obtained using the formula W = V x A (watts = volts x amps) to calculate the instantaneous power draw of a console at any given moment. However, this formula may not give an accurate representation of the console's average power draw over time as power consumption can vary depending on the device's activities and usage patterns. For example, a gaming console may consume more power while running a graphics-intensive game than when it's in standby mode.

Therefore, by looking at the average wattage drawn by a console over time, obtained from either manufacturer-provided statistics or direct measurement using a device such as a "Kill A Watt," users can better estimate the console's actual power consumption. This article's columns display the wattage drawn by the console over time, including when powered on and running a game, when powered off, and (if applicable) when in standby or sleep mode, using only measurements taken with the original power supply.

  Original PN:  

The OEM power supply for a given console will have a part number printed on it. Therefore, if one console had several different models of power supply produced for it during its lifetime, the manufacturer can differentiate between the different models (as each model may have different specifications such as the output voltage, amperage or plug size). Customers can also use the part number to find a replacement power supply online or by contacting the manufacturer directly.

The numbers in the "Original PN" column refer to the part numbers for the original stock power supply for a given console.

  Replacement PN:  

Gamers may consider getting a third-party power supply for their console in a few situations. Firstly, if the original power supply is damaged or lost and needs to be replaced, a third-party power supply may be a more affordable option than purchasing a new original power supply from the manufacturer.

Secondly, some customers may prefer to use a third-party power supply that has additional features or specifications that the original power supply does not have. For example, a third-party power supply may have a longer cord, a higher wattage rating, or additional surge protection.

It's important to note that using a third-party power supply may void the console's warranty and may also carry the risk of damaging the console if the power supply is not of good quality or if it is not compatible with the console. Customers should do their research to ensure they are purchasing a reputable and compatible third-party power supply. Triad brand replacement power supplies that are listed by Firebrandx and/or Castlemania Games are generally recognized in the retro-gaming community as being a quality option. If a recommended replacement power supply for a given console is available, the part number will be listed in this column.



  Connection:  

In the context of retro gaming, a "connector" is the physical interface between the power supply and the console it is powering. It typically has a plug on one end that attaches to the power supply and a receptible (or a "jack") on the other end that receives the plug and provides power to the device. Connectors come in various shapes, sizes, and types - the main reason that console manufacturers use different connector types and barrel sizes is due to differences in power requirements, physical space limitations, and proprietary design choices. Console manufacturers may use proprietary designs for their power connectors in order to maintain control over the distribution of power supplies for their consoles. This can help ensure compatibility and prevent third-party companies from producing low-quality or unsafe power supplies that could damage the console or harm users.

  Power Supply:  

Broadly speaking, there are two types of power supply: Internal and External.

"External" (for example the Atari 2600) refers to power supplies with a "black power brick" (i.e. an AC adapter) attached to the cable. The "brick" is a device that converts the "AC power" from the wall outlet and converts it into the right kind of "DC power" that the console needs to work. It keeps the console safe from any electrical issues that might happen and ensure it gets the right amount of power to work properly. The reason that the power brick is often a separate device (rather than being built into the console itself) is because different regions of the world use different voltages and plug types for their wall outlets. The power brick is designed to work with the specific region where the console is being used, to ensure it doesn't get damaged.

Sometimes, the console will have no visible power prick (for example, the Dreamcast or the PlayStation). In these cases, it is likely that the console has an "Internal" power supply board, inside the console, that connects directly to its motherboard. The internal power board performs basically the same function as an external power brick, which is to convert the incoming AC voltage from a wall outlet to the DC voltage required by the console. Many gaming consoles with internal power supplies will use a standard figure 8 cable to connect to the wall outlet, but a guide to common connectors can be found here and on the IEC 60320 Wikipedia page. The user should also ensure that the console's internal power supply is rated for the AC coming out of their wall. If your console's internal power supply does not match your country's AC voltage (for example, a North American gamer using a European Dreamcast), then step-up/step-down transformers to go up/down in voltage for the target device may be a good option.

  Notes:  

Any exceptions to the above guidelines, or idiosyncrasies related to an individual console, should be laid out in the "Notes" column. For example, there are exceptions to the rule that voltage on a replacement should be as close as possible to the voltage on the original power supply. The Sega Genesis for instance, uses a 7805 voltage regulator to step the input down from 9V to 5V. The 7805 expects a minimum voltage of 6.5V - the significance of this is that a Genesis 2 (whose original power supply outputs 10V) will work fine with a 9V power supply.

Readers may also note that many early first-generation gaming consoles, such as the Magnavox Odyssey and the first versions of the Atari Home Pong, used batteries instead of AC adapters. This was because they were designed to be portable and used with a TV. At the time, AC adapters were typically large, heavy, and expensive, and would have made the consoles much less portable. Batteries, on the other hand, were readily available and allowed the consoles to be used anywhere without needing to be plugged into a wall outlet. Additionally, the relatively simple electronics of these early consoles required much less power than modern consoles, so batteries could provide sufficient power for extended periods of play.