Comparison of Power Supplies

This article is intended as a guide to original power supplies for various vintage consoles. Its purpose is to document various power ratings information for specific consoles, and to inform users as to their requirements when making decisions about replacement power supplies.

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Explanation of Terms
Console:


 * = An asterix symbol beside a console's name means that a Triad brand replacement power supply is available for that console (Firebrandx website).

Voltage:

Generally speaking, the "Voltage" figure on the power supply should match the official specs (below) as closely as possible. There will be exceptions to this rule, and they will be highlighted in the "Notes" column.

Amps:

As amperage refers to potential current (and the device will only draw as much as required) - the A (or the mA) figure may be higher than what the console requires to operate, but should not be lower.

The figures below do not account for additional power draw caused by various modifications, flashcart devices, wireless controllers or similar after-market additions.

Polarity:

The power supply's connector can be center-positive (C+) or center-negative (C-). They can be distinguished by the symbols which can be found, usually either on the power brick, or on the plug.



Centre-positive symbol



Centre-negative symbol

To avoid damage to the console, the user should inspect the symbol on their power supply and ensure that its polarity matches the polarity of the corresponding console (see table below).

Original PN:

The part number for the original stock power supply for a given console.

Replacement PN:

The part number for the recommended replacement power supply for that console.

Connection:

Power Supply:

Note that if the "Power Supply" column says "Internal", then that particular console has an internal power supply module that will perform a similar function to the external "power bricks" used by most retro consoles. If your console's power supply is "internal", the user just needs to find a cable that has the correct electrical plug for your region and also has the matching console-facing connector. This will often be a Figure-8 cable, but a guide to common connectors can be found here and on the IEC 60320 Wikipedia page. The user should also ensure that the console's internal power supply is rated for the AC coming out of their wall. If your console's internal power supply does not match your country's AC voltage (for example, a North American gamer using a European Dreamcast), then step-up/step-down transformers to go up/down in voltage for the target device may be a good option.

Notes:

Any exceptions to the above guidelines, or idiosyncrasies related to an individual console, should be laid out in the "Notes" column. For example, there are exceptions to the rule that voltage on a replacement should be as close as possible to the voltage on the original power supply. The Sega Genesis for instance, uses a 7805 voltage regulator to step the input down from 9V to 5V. The 7805 expects a minimum voltage of 6.5V - the significance of this is that a Genesis 2 (whose original power supply outputs 10V) will work fine with a 9V power supply.