Xbox:Controller Repair
 | This page is an early work in progress. Please help fill out incomplete sections! |
[Intro. Link to Wikipedia article.]
[Things to note: Connector is really USB, but with extra v-sync wire for lightguns. Onboard memory slots are also USB ports (plus v-sync pin) in different form factor, each controller is a USB hub.]
Xbox Game Controller "The Duke"
 | The plastic used in original Duke controllers has become very brittle with age. Extra care should be taken when handling and especially when disassembling them. See the Shell section below for more info. |
The original controller included with early Xbox consoles. Most consider it too large to use comfortably, but some people prefer its size, or the position of the black and white buttons similar to a classic 6-button controller. Far fewer of these were produced compared to the later Xbox Controller S, but their much lower demand have kept them relatively affordable. The price for good condition Dukes could increase as the controller shells break and its unique thumbstick grips wear away.
Disassembly
Carefully remove the 7 screws on the back. With the controller still face down, lift away the main part of the body, which includes the memory unit sockets. The buttons, membranes, and D-pad should be resting loosely in the top shell section.
To remove the board and separate the bottom shell, first disconnect the two rumble motors and remove the 4 screws that are marked on the PCB. Lift away the board including the plastic surrounding the memory unit sockets. Watch for a small piece of plastic that is normally sandwiched between the memory unit sockets and the rear shell, right behind the strain relief section of the cord. It will likely become loose. Once this piece is removed, the memory unit sockets will freely slide away from the board.
To remove the rumble motors from the bottom shell, simply remove the four screws and plastic covers on each, then slide the motor out.
| During reassembly, take extra care to not over-tighten any screws! |
Shell
All retail Duke controllers have a solid black shell with a standard jewel.
The plastic used in the Duke controller shells have become very brittle over time. They are prone to easily breaking on impact, especially near the grips. The internal screw posts are likely to shatter during controller assembly or disassembly, especially if the screws are over-tightened. Broken screw posts can be rebuilt out of epoxy or hot glue, but the quality and strength of the result can vary.
There are no known aftermarket shells available.
Thumbsticks
Once the top shell is removed and the board is exposed, the thumbsticks (plastic and rubber section) can be removed by simply pulling on them.
The Duke's thumbsticks are larger and taller than other Xbox sticks. The shape and designs on the grips are also different between the left and right stick (concave on the left, convex on the right). These sticks are unique to the Duke and there are no similar aftermarket replacements available. However, the Duke is compatible with Controller S thumbsticks, or aftermarket Xbox 360 thumbsticks which are readily available.
Cord
[Slightly different design from Controller S cord, but compatible?]
[Genuine Duke controller cords are all slightly translucent green.]
[Aftermarket parts available?]
Triggers
[Trigger mechanism disassembly]
Capacitors
- 2x 25V 4.7uf (C2 & C21)
- 1x 16v 10uf (C13)
- 2x 6.3v 100uf (C30 & C32)
According to this product page: zedlabz.com
Xbox Controller S
[Images of both board versions.]
[Summary. More common, more affordable, and most consider more comfortable.]
Disassembly
[Instructions to safely remove the product label.]
[7 screws to open the case. No screws to remove the board. 2 screws to disassemble the D-pad.]
Shell
[Many color and jewel combinations produced. Most common are solid black, translucent green, translucent blue. Link to Reddit post.]
[No aftermarket parts available.]
Thumbsticks
[Instructions to replace thumbstick posts.]
[Compatible with Xbox 360 Controller aftermarket thumbsticks.]
Cord
| [Warning about connector orientation when resoldering. |
[Slightly different from Duke controller cord, but compatible?]
[Black cord if made in China, or slightly translucent green if made in Malaysia.]
[Genuine S Controller cords have Microsoft logo on ferrite bead. (Duke controllers do not.)]
[Aftermarket parts available, including breakaway adapters.]
Triggers
[Trigger mechanism disassembly]
Capacitors
[Console5?]
Cleaning
[Disassemble to separate plastic components. Scrub plastic components with dish soap and warm water. Silicone button and D-pad membranes can also be cleaned with soap and water, but are more delicate. Clean other internal components with IPA, recommend Q-tips and a toothbrush.]
Testing
[Use Xbox Gamepad Tester. List of inputs (and rumble motors) to test.]
[Also test both memory unit sockets if possible, especially if any board components were replaced or repaired.]
Breakaway dongle
[Genuine breakaway dongles are solid black or translucent green, and have XBOX name embossed near top of connector.]
[Aftermarket dongles readily available.]