SNES:1CHIP Mods: Difference between revisions
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# Disassemble the 1CHIP console and flip the board over. | # Disassemble the 1CHIP console and flip the board over. | ||
# Locate the "R6", "R7" and "R8" RGB via holes | # Locate the "R6", "R7" and "R8" RGB via holes | ||
# Solder three 750 Ohm resistors to the holes and then solder all of them to the ground point shown in the picture. | # Solder three 750 Ohm resistors to the via holes and then solder all of them to the ground point shown in the picture. | ||
# Trim any of the resistors that are sticking out the other end. | # Trim any of the resistors that are sticking out the other end. | ||
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Revision as of 23:22, 14 July 2022
Brightness Fix
All 1CHIP consoles output a signal that's too bright. This can result in an image that's slightly washed out, or shows signs of "ringing". In fact, it's possible that this is a big part of the reason some people think SNES Mini's look better then 1CHIP's. Luckily, the fix is _extremely_ easy!
- Disassemble the 1CHIP console and flip the board over.
- Locate the "R6", "R7" and "R8" RGB via holes
- Solder three 750 Ohm resistors to the via holes and then solder all of them to the ground point shown in the picture.
- Trim any of the resistors that are sticking out the other end.
1CHIP-03 CSYNC Fix
There are three revisions of the 1CHIP motherboard: SNS-CPU-1CHIP-01, SNS-CPU-1CHIP-02 and SNS-CPU-1CHIP-03. The "03" revision does not have csync run to the multi-out. You can use these consoles without a modification, simply by using an RGB SCART cable that gets sync from luma. You can restore csync on these consoles by using a simple jumper wire, however that doesn't seem to be the best solution, as it's missing circuitry found in the other 1CHIP revisions: RetroRGB Migration:snescsync
If you have a 1CHIP-03, you'll want to consider using a sync-on-luma cable, restoring the entire circuit on the motherboard, or using an RGB bypass board that includes the full csync circuit.
1CHIP RGB Bypass (Launch Model)
Even though the 1CHIP consoles already output high quality RGB, you still might want to bypass the onboard amp and use a different one for a cleaner picture. Since all 1CHIP's already have S-Video run to the board, the S-Video pads will not be used. The THS7374 low-pass filter can manipulated by shorting the LPF pads.
- Required Materials:
- Soldering equipment and 26-30AWG Wire
- Three 750 ohm resistors
- Three 75 ohm resistors
- Voultar's SNES 1CHIP/Mini RGB Bypass Kit or you a DIY RGB Amp board.
- Remove the motherboard and locate the multi-out pins on the bottom of the board.
- If using a pre-made board, place the amp chip over the multi-out pins and solder all the connections.
- Right near the multi-out, you'll find resistors labeled R15, R16 and R17.
- De-solder these components to remove the RGBS connection to the multi-out.
- Into each of the three vias (holes), insert a 750 ohm resistor and solder all three to the nearby ground pad as shown below. Be sure to trim the leads off of the other side.
- Solder wires onto the via side of the red (R6), green (R7), and blue (R8) resistors (as shown in the picture above) to the RGB amp input pins.
- If using a DIY board:
- If you have a SNS-CPU-1CHIP-03, you will need to solder a wire between these two pads to restore CSYNC to the multi-out port.