Xbox 360:JTAG/AUD CLAMP: Difference between revisions
(Created page with "This is the traditional JTAG and R-JTOP wiring for Zephyr, Falcon/Opus, and Jasper motherboards. This method may disable 5.1 audio output. ==Equipment Needed== *A soldering iron, solder, and flux *Isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher recommended) and cotton swabs *28AWG or 30AWG wire *Two 1N914/4148 switching diodes *Heat shrink tubing ==Motherboard Soldering== Solder the wires to the points as shown in the image. Make sure to properly mount the diodes with the correct polar...") |
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[[Category:Xbox360]] | |||
This is the traditional JTAG and R-JTOP wiring for Zephyr, Falcon/Opus, and Jasper motherboards. This method may disable 5.1 audio output. | This is the traditional JTAG and R-JTOP wiring for Zephyr, Falcon/Opus, and Jasper motherboards. This method may disable 5.1 audio output. | ||
==Equipment Needed== | ==Equipment Needed== | ||
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*Heat shrink tubing | *Heat shrink tubing | ||
==Motherboard Soldering== | ==Motherboard Soldering== | ||
Solder the wires to the points as shown in the image. Make sure to properly mount the diodes with the correct polarity. For reference the cathode end of a diode is the side with a stripe on it. | Solder the wires to the points as shown in the image. Make sure to properly mount the diodes with the correct polarity. For reference, the cathode end of a diode is the side with a stripe on it. | ||
[[File:Jtag Zephyr-Falcon-Jasper.jpg|986x986px]] | [[File:Jtag Zephyr-Falcon-Jasper.jpg|986x986px]] | ||
Latest revision as of 18:04, 30 August 2024
This is the traditional JTAG and R-JTOP wiring for Zephyr, Falcon/Opus, and Jasper motherboards. This method may disable 5.1 audio output.
Equipment Needed
- A soldering iron, solder, and flux
- Isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher recommended) and cotton swabs
- 28AWG or 30AWG wire
- Two 1N914/4148 switching diodes
- Heat shrink tubing
Motherboard Soldering
Solder the wires to the points as shown in the image. Make sure to properly mount the diodes with the correct polarity. For reference, the cathode end of a diode is the side with a stripe on it.
Testing the Console
Once you've finished soldering, clean up any flux with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs. Partially re-assemble your Xbox 360, ensuring that:
- Heatsinks are attached (If they were removed for some reason)
- Fan(s) are in place and plugged in (On a phat console, the fans can be angled on top of the heatsinks to cool them for testing)
- The RF board is plugged into the front of the console
- An A/V or HDMI cable is plugged into the Xbox 360 and into a TV or monitor
- A power brick is plugged in to both the wall and Xbox 360
- (Optional) An ethernet cable is plugged into the Xbox 360 and a LAN (e.g. a switch, router, or directly to a PC)
Turn on your console, and it should boot into XeLL RELOADED within a minute. If you don't have an ethernet cable connected, write down (and/or take a picture of) the "CPU Key" listed on screen. You can now go back to the JTAG or R-JTOP hack page and continue from the beginning of the "Decrypting The NAND" section.
- If your console doesn't boot into XeLL, check all previous steps and double check your wiring accuracy and quality. Also try using a non-HDMI cable, as XeLL doesn't seem to always boot with a HDMI cable. Once your console is fully hacked you can swap the video cable back out.
Troubleshooting
- What should I do if I ripped off a soldering pad?
- Look online for an alternate point to solder onto. Practice more on junk electronics before attempting to continue.