This is an 8-port dual-output SCART switch made specifically for retro-gaming. Both output ports can be connected at the same time, and it features automatic switching between consoles.
This is an 8-port dual-output SCART switch made specifically for retro-gaming. Both output ports can be connected at the same time, and it features automatic switching between consoles.
You can purchase one on [https://castlemaniagames.com/collections/gretrostuff/products/gscart CastleMania's store].
All questions and support should be posted [http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=50851 in the forum ]
{{Warning|Do not connect a supergun to the switch, as it will permanently damage it and will void your warranty.}}
===Features===
==Features==
* Bundled with power supply
* Bundled with power supply
Line 17:
Line 17:
* Switch dimensions: 10-1/2 x 5-1/8 x 1-1/2 - Weight: 1lb, 5oz
* Switch dimensions: 10-1/2 x 5-1/8 x 1-1/2 - Weight: 1lb, 5oz
===Other Info===
==Other Info==
The gscartsw will automatically detect which console is powered on and switch to it. It's best to not power on more then one console at a time, but doing so will not damage the switch. Also, you can chain two gscartsw's together for 15 total inputs:
The gscartsw will automatically detect which console is powered on and switch to it. It's best to not power on more then one console at a time, but doing so will not damage the switch. Also, you can chain two gscartsw's together for 15 total inputs:
<youtube>qSCgh4MO18o</youtube>
<youtube>qSCgh4MO18o</youtube>
===LPF Toggle Mod===
Comparison to other switches:
This is for the gscartsw only, _not_ the 'lite', as the lite doesn't use a chip with a filter. This mod toggles the low-pass filter on the THS7374 amp that's inside the gscartsw. When going from analog to digital, you'll always want one LPF in your chain, or you can get interference on the screen. The only "problem" with LPF's is when more then one are in the same chain. The end effect results in a slightly blurred image.
* [https://www.retrorgb.com/g-switch-bumper-cases.html Bumper case for gscart & gcompsw]
==LPF Toggle Mod==
This is for the gscartsw only, _not_ the 'lite', as the lite doesn't use a chip with a filter. This mod toggles the low-pass filter on the THS7374 amp that's inside the gscartsw. When going from analog to digital, you'll always want one LPF in your chain, or you can get interference on the screen. The only "problem" with LPF's is when more then one are in the same chain. The end effect results in a slightly blurred image.
LPF On:
LPF On:
Line 34:
Line 41:
* RGB Monitors
* RGB Monitors
* Any time another device already has one built in (including in the above scenarios), such as a console with a THS7314 mod.
* Any time another device already has one built in (including in the above scenarios), such as a console with a THS7314 mod.
===Instructions===
# Start by unscrewing everything. Be sure to save every single spacer and screw. Then flip it over and look for this spot (notice the VGA port on the top for orientation) <br> [[File:gscartsw_lpf-02.jpg]]
# Carefully desolder and move the "R39" resistor over, as this is the spot on the board that goes directly to the LPF toggle pin. You'll want to move it over, so it's covering the "R39" lettering and make sure the pads aren't connected at all. Then solder a wire to the other side of the resistor. It's best to tack the wire down with a tiny bit of glue, so that the wire isn't flopping around. Then run it through the unused pin 3 of the EXT port out to the top. DO NOT SOLDER THE WIRE TO PIN 3, just use it as a way to route the wire through to the top of the board. <br> [[File:gscartsw_lpf-03_small.jpg]]
# Solder wires to pin 1 (ground) and pin 4 (5v) on the Ext port: <br> [[File:gscartsw_lpf-04.jpg]]
# Solder the three wires to a 2-position, 3-pole switch. Make sure that the wire coming from the pad & resistor is in the middle position. The orientation of the other two don't matter, but note that Ground = LPF On and 5v = LPF Off. <br> [[File:gscartsw_lpf-05.jpg]]
====Switch Mounting and Reassembly====
Note: Drilling through thick acrylic is a pain. An alternative would be to epoxy/CA glue the switch to the case.
[[File:gscartsw_lpf-06.jpg]]
====Results====
Bob from RetroRGB found that there's still a small amount of filtering happening, even with the LPF turned off. <br> [[File:gscartsw_LPF_Comparison.png]]
Latest revision as of 19:11, 9 July 2023
gscartsw as shown at castlemaniagames.com
This is an 8-port dual-output SCART switch made specifically for retro-gaming. Both output ports can be connected at the same time, and it features automatic switching between consoles.
Integrated sync stripper with sync regeneration and RGsB support
Integrated DC Restore circuit
PSU polarity protection included.
Switch dimensions: 10-1/2 x 5-1/8 x 1-1/2 - Weight: 1lb, 5oz
Other Info
The gscartsw will automatically detect which console is powered on and switch to it. It's best to not power on more then one console at a time, but doing so will not damage the switch. Also, you can chain two gscartsw's together for 15 total inputs:
This is for the gscartsw only, _not_ the 'lite', as the lite doesn't use a chip with a filter. This mod toggles the low-pass filter on the THS7374 amp that's inside the gscartsw. When going from analog to digital, you'll always want one LPF in your chain, or you can get interference on the screen. The only "problem" with LPF's is when more then one are in the same chain. The end effect results in a slightly blurred image.
LPF On:
Framemeister
Direct into a flat-screen
Direct into a capture card
LPF Off:
OSSC (use its LPF instead)
RGB Monitors
Any time another device already has one built in (including in the above scenarios), such as a console with a THS7314 mod.
Instructions
Start by unscrewing everything. Be sure to save every single spacer and screw. Then flip it over and look for this spot (notice the VGA port on the top for orientation)
Carefully desolder and move the "R39" resistor over, as this is the spot on the board that goes directly to the LPF toggle pin. You'll want to move it over, so it's covering the "R39" lettering and make sure the pads aren't connected at all. Then solder a wire to the other side of the resistor. It's best to tack the wire down with a tiny bit of glue, so that the wire isn't flopping around. Then run it through the unused pin 3 of the EXT port out to the top. DO NOT SOLDER THE WIRE TO PIN 3, just use it as a way to route the wire through to the top of the board.
Solder wires to pin 1 (ground) and pin 4 (5v) on the Ext port:
Solder the three wires to a 2-position, 3-pole switch. Make sure that the wire coming from the pad & resistor is in the middle position. The orientation of the other two don't matter, but note that Ground = LPF On and 5v = LPF Off.
Switch Mounting and Reassembly
Note: Drilling through thick acrylic is a pain. An alternative would be to epoxy/CA glue the switch to the case.
Results
Bob from RetroRGB found that there's still a small amount of filtering happening, even with the LPF turned off.
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