SNES:1CHIP Mods: Difference between revisions

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==Brightness Fix==  
==Brightness Fix==  
[[File:1CHIPBrightnessAdjustment.jpg|thumb|End Result.]]
[[File:1CHIPBrightnessAdjustment.jpg|thumb|End Result.]]
All 1CHIP consoles output a signal that's too bright. This can result in an image that's slightly washed out, or shows signs of "ringing". In fact, it's possible that this is a big part of the reason some people think SNES Mini's look better then 1CHIP's. Luckily, the fix is extremely easy!
All 1CHIP consoles output a signal that's too bright. This can result in an image that's slightly washed out, or shows signs of "ringing". In fact, it's possible that this is a big part of the reason some people think SNES Mini's look better then 1CHIP's. Luckily, the fix is extremely easy!

Revision as of 04:36, 29 July 2022

Brightness Fix

End Result.

All 1CHIP consoles output a signal that's too bright. This can result in an image that's slightly washed out, or shows signs of "ringing". In fact, it's possible that this is a big part of the reason some people think SNES Mini's look better then 1CHIP's. Luckily, the fix is extremely easy!

  1. Disassemble the 1CHIP console and flip the board over.
  2. Locate the "R6", "R7" and "R8" RGB via holes
  3. Solder three 750 Ohm resistors to the via holes and then solder all of them to the ground point shown in the picture.
  4. Trim any of the resistors that are sticking out the other end.


1CHIP-03 CSYNC Fix

There are three revisions of the 1CHIP motherboard: SNS-CPU-1CHIP-01, SNS-CPU-1CHIP-02 and SNS-CPU-1CHIP-03. The "03" revision does not have csync run to the multi-out. You can use these consoles without a modification, simply by using an RGB SCART cable that gets sync from luma. You can restore csync on these consoles by using a simple jumper wire, however that doesn't seem to be the best solution, as it's missing circuitry found in the other 1CHIP revisions: RetroRGB Migration:snescsync

If you have a 1CHIP-03, you'll want to consider using a sync-on-luma cable, restoring the entire circuit on the motherboard, or using an RGB bypass board that includes the full csync circuit.

1CHIP RGB Bypass

Even though the 1CHIP consoles already output high quality RGB, you still might want to bypass the onboard amp and use a different one for a cleaner picture. Since all 1CHIP's already have S-Video run to the board, the S-Video pads will not be used. The THS7374 low-pass filter can manipulated by shorting the LPF pads.

A finished RGB Bypass mod using a Voultar board.
  1. Remove the motherboard and locate the multi-out pins on the bottom of the board.
    • If using a pre-made board, place the amp chip over the multi-out pins and solder all the connections.
  2. Right near the multi-out, you'll find resistors labeled R15, R16 and R17.
  3. De-solder these components to remove the RGBS connection to the multi-out.
  4. If not present from doing the brightness fix separately: Insert a 750 ohm resistor into each of the three vias (holes), solder them in place, then solder all three to the nearby ground pad as shown below. Be sure to trim the leads off of the other side.
    1CHIPBypass-11.jpg
  5. Solder wires onto the via side of the red (R6), green (R7), and blue (R8) resistors (as shown in the picture above) to the RGB amp input pins.
  6. If using a DIY board:
    1. Attach output wires with a 75 ohm resistor on the Red, Green, and Blue lines to the RGB pins of the multi-out as shown below.
    2. Attach 5V and Ground wires to motherboard and amp board as shown below.
      1CHIPBypass-07.jpg
  7. If you have a SNS-CPU-1CHIP-03, you will need to solder a wire between these two pads to restore CSYNC to the multi-out port.
    1CHIP-03-csync.jpg