Xbox:Controller Repair

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Both versions of the original Xbox controller are relatively simple to disassemble, clean, and perform basic maintenance. The thumbsticks' rubber grips will wear away with time and use, and are easily replaced with just a screwdriver and a pair of commonly available Xbox 360 controller thumbsticks. If the controller cord is damaged or causing disconnects, it can be replaced, though this requires soldering.

Xbox Game Controller "The Duke"

The plastic used in original Duke controllers has become very brittle with age. Extra care should be taken when handling and especially when disassembling them. See the Shell section below for more info.

The original controller included with early Xbox consoles. Most consider it too large to use comfortably, but some people prefer its size, or the position of the black and white buttons similar to a classic 6-button controller. Far fewer of these were produced compared to the later Xbox Controller S, but their much lower demand have kept them relatively affordable. The price for good condition Dukes could increase as the controller shells break and its unique thumbstick grips wear away.

Disassembly

Carefully remove the 7 screws on the back. With the controller still face down, lift away the main part of the body, which includes the memory unit sockets. The buttons, membranes, and D-pad should be resting loosely in the top shell section.

To remove the board and separate the bottom shell, first disconnect the two rumble motors and remove the 4 screws that are marked on the PCB. Lift away the board including the plastic surrounding the memory unit sockets. Watch for a small piece of plastic that is normally sandwiched between the memory unit sockets and the rear shell, right behind the strain relief section of the cord. It will likely become loose. Once this piece is removed, the memory unit sockets will freely slide away from the board.

To remove the rumble motors from the bottom shell, simply remove the four screws and plastic covers on each, then slide the motor out.

During reassembly, take extra care to not over-tighten any screws!

Shell

All retail Duke controllers have a solid black shell with a standard jewel.

The plastic used in the Duke controller shells have become very brittle over time. They are prone to easily breaking on impact, especially near the grips. The internal screw posts are likely to shatter during controller assembly or disassembly, especially if the screws are over-tightened. Broken screw posts can be rebuilt out of epoxy or hot glue, but the quality and strength of the result can vary.

There are no known aftermarket shells available.

Thumbsticks

Once the top shell is removed and the board is exposed, the thumbsticks (plastic and rubber section) can be removed by simply pulling on them.

The Duke's thumbsticks are larger and taller than other Xbox sticks. The shape and designs on the grips are also different between the left and right stick (concave on the left, convex on the right). These sticks are unique to the Duke and there are no similar aftermarket replacements available. However, the Duke is compatible with Controller S thumbsticks, or aftermarket Xbox 360 thumbsticks which are readily available.

Cord

[Slightly different design from Controller S cord, but compatible?]
[Genuine Duke controller cords are all slightly translucent green.]
[Aftermarket parts available?]

Triggers

[Trigger mechanism disassembly]

Capacitors

• 2x 25V 4.7uf (C2 & C21)
• 1x 16v 10uf (C13)
• 2x 6.3v 100uf (C30 & C32)

According to this product page: zedlabz.com

Xbox Controller S

The smaller, revised controller design, released within a year of the console's launch. The preferred choice of most Xbox users. Genuine S Controllers remain affordable and fairly reliable.
[Images of both board versions.]

Disassembly

One of the screws is covered by the product label with the barcode on it. The simple solution is to feel for the indentation and punch a hole through the label with your screwdriver. Even in this compromised state, the label can survive a light scrubbing with soap and water without further damage or loss of adhesion. However, if you want to clean the shell more thoroughly or preserve the label fully intact, then it must first be removed with heat.

Using a heat gun, thoroughly heat one side of the label to 125°C. If using a hair dryer, start with it set to medium heat and very slowly increase as needed. Using a sharp blade, carefully peel away a corner of the label, until you can grip it with tweezers or similar. Continue to apply heat and very light pressure to lift the label off. If sufficiently heated, the label should almost fall off with no residue left behind. Once removed, attach it to wax paper for storage.

Excessive heat can cause the label to shrink and the plastic shell to become brittle and develop cracks, especially for translucent controllers. Be patient and allow plenty of time for the surface to heat up before attempting to increase heat output.

Once the label is dealt with, remove the 7 screws from the back of the controller.

[No screws to remove the board. 2 screws to disassemble the D-pad.]

Shell

[Many color and jewel combinations produced. Most common are solid black, translucent green, translucent blue. Link to Reddit post.]
[No aftermarket parts available.]

Thumbsticks

[Instructions to replace thumbstick posts.]
[Compatible with Xbox 360 Controller aftermarket thumbsticks.]

Cord

[Warning about connector orientation when resoldering.

[Slightly different from Duke controller cord, but compatible?]
[Black cord if made in China, or slightly translucent green if made in Malaysia.]
[Genuine S Controller cords have Microsoft logo on ferrite bead. (Duke controllers do not.)]
[Aftermarket parts available, including breakaway adapters.]

Triggers

[Trigger mechanism disassembly]

Capacitors

[Console5?]

Cleaning

[Disassemble to separate plastic components. Scrub plastic components with dish soap and warm water. Silicone button and D-pad membranes can also be cleaned with soap and water, but are more delicate. Clean other internal components with IPA, recommend Q-tips and a toothbrush.]

Testing

[Use Xbox Gamepad Tester. List of inputs (and rumble motors) to test.]
[Also test both memory unit sockets if possible, especially if any board components were replaced or repaired.]

Breakaway dongle

[Genuine breakaway dongles are solid black or translucent green, and have XBOX name embossed near top of connector.]
[Aftermarket dongles readily available.]