Atari 5200:Bypassing the Switchbox (4-port)

By default, the 4-port Atari 5200 models have a single permanently-attached RF video cable that also doubles as the power cable for the console. This configuration requires a special switchbox made specifically for the Atari 5200 which provides the power and also provides the RF signal to your TV. The switchbox can be a point of failure and likely the combining of power and audio/video into one wire contributes to audio/video interference. In the later 2-port models, a dedicated power jack is added to the console, making use of a previously-unused hole in the case.

This guide will walk you through installing a power jack mod kit (documentation) into your Atari 5200 on a 4-port model to separate the audio/video from your power line.

Notes

• The included diode is for reverse-polarity protection and isn't necessary but is highly recommended.
• The original 4700µF can be used in place of 47µF but will need to be relocated and have it's leads extended. It is recommended to use the new capacitor instead.
• You do not need to remove the metal RF shielding for this mod.
• This kit uses the original power supply though any 2A, 9–11.5V DC power supply with center positive 5mm outer diameter, 2.1mm inner diameter plug will work.
• While ultimately the attached video cable can be removed, it is recommended to leave it intact in order to test the mod afterwards.

Removing Components

1. Remove capacitor C45. Depending on your motherboard, the footprint underneath it may be different and it may be a large (4700µF) or small (47µF) capacitor.
2. Remove inductor L8.

Mounting Power Jack

Choose where you'd like the power jack. The most obvious choice is to drill where the power jack is on the later models - right next to the hole for the channel switch in the back-right of the console. Some 4-port models have an existing hole in this spot due to the factory putting the motherboard in a newer shell designed for the later 4-port revision. However, sometimes this hole is too large for the power jack you have, so you may need to use a large washer or use epoxy to attach a piece of plastic to a shape large enough to cover the existing hole in the case and drill a hole through it to fit the power jack.

Soldering

1. Solder the non-band side of the diode to the red wire of one of the two included quick-release connectors.
2. Solder the band-side of the diode to southern-most via of the inductor you removed (L8).
3. Solder the black wire of the same quick-release connector to the northern-most via that was covered by the capacitor you removed (C45).
4. Solder the 47µF capacitor where the capacitor you removed was. Ensure that you have the correct polarity.
5. Solder the 0.1µF capacitor between the center post and outer post of the DC jack. You may want to check that there is no continuity between the two.
6. Solder the red wire of the other quick-release connector to the center post of the DC jack.
7. Solder the last remaining black wire of the quick-release connector to the outer post or shield of the DC jack.

Testing

Test the functionality of the power mod by plugging the RF cable into a standard switchbox and hooking it up to a TV and making sure you can play it. Alternatively, you can use the RCA jack on the motherboard to get an RF signal.

• (Optional) Remove the RF video cable. If you are planning to do another mod, such as a RGB or composite video mod, you can remove the attached RF cable by bending open the metal tabs holding the cable in place and then desoldering the cable.