Master System:3-D Glasses on SMS II
Introduced in the early 1990s, the Sega Master System II was a cost-reduced version of the Master System that did away with some of the original console's infrequently-used features, such as the card slot, AV out and a few others. The removal of the card slot not only rendered games on Sega Card completely unplayable (although Sega later reissued most of these games on cartridge), but games which made use of the 3-D glasses were also affected. This was because the adapter needed for the glasses to work connected to the card slot, and with this missing, 3-D games which did not have a 2-D mode were practically unplayable. Because Sega had not introduced any new 3-D games since 1989 and since the glasses themselves were discontinued, the company never developed a 3-D glasses adapter for Master System II owners.
In 2018, the user "n00b" on the circuit-board.de forums reverse engineered the PCB for the Sega 3-D glasses adapter and developed a cut-down version suitable for installation inside a Master System II. This modification is wired to certain signals on the console's cartridge port, and outputs to a 3.5 mm stereo jack just as the original adapter does. This adapter can also be installed inside an original Master System or even a Genesis/Mega Drive as they all contain the necessary signals for the adapter PCB to function.
Materials and Tools
- Materials
- Tools
- Phillips head or JIS screwdriver
- Soldering iron
- Multimeter
- Flush cutters
- Wire strippers
- Cordless drill with step bit
Procedure
- Flip over the Master System II and remove the five screws securing the shell. When all five screws have been removed, tilt the top shell towards the front to remove it. This is because there are two small tabs which hold the top shell in place alongside the screws.
- Unscrew the top RF shield and set it aside. Carefully remove the main board along with the bottom RF shield, then set the bottom shell and shielding aside.
- Determine where the 3-D PCB will be placed. An ideal place is the bottom of the main board next to the cartridge slot, since all of the signals that need to be connected are within easy reach and there is enough room for the 3-D PCB to clear the bottom case and RF shield.
- Stick a few pieces of foam tape on the bottom of the 3-D PCB and stick the PCB on the main board, making sure it cannot come loose.
- It is also important that the bottom of the 3-D PCB not touch the main board as it is not insulated.
- Wire the PCB according to the pins on the cartridge slot. There are about 20 signals to wire up so take your time.
- Also be mindful about where your wires are going and how long you cut them, so they do not come near screw holes or anywhere they can possibly come in contact with the bottom shell.
- Using a cordless drill and a step bit, drill a hole in the bottom shell large enough to accommodate the 3.5 mm jack. Placement is up to personal preference, it can be installed on the front for convenience, or placed on the back or one of the sides for a cleaner appearance.
- Solder three wires onto the pins of the 3.5 mm jack, making sure the wires are long enough to reach the 3-D PCB when inside the console shell.
- Mount the 3.5 mm jack into the hole drilled earlier and tighten it as much as possible.
- Wire the other ends of the wires from the 3.5 mm jack to the 3-D PCB according to the silkscreen on the PCB.