CD-i:CD-i 220 RGB Mod: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:RetroRGB Migration WIP]] Mitch1256
As long as your NTSC CDi has the Sony CXA chip, this mod will work.  PAL 220 boards should have the RGB SCART built-in.
As long as your NTSC CDi has the Sony CXA chip, this mod will work.  PAL 220's should have the RGB SCART built-in.  That being said, please proceed at your own risk!!!


Parts Needed:
== Required Materials ==


You'll need a few tools for this mod (more info on the tools can be found in the tools section:
You'll need a few tools for this mod:
# Soldering skills!
* Soldering skills
# Torx screwdriver set to open the CDi case & internals
* Torx screwdriver set to open the CDi case and internals
# Philips head screwdriver
* Philips head screwdriver
# Soldering iron / solder
* Soldering iron / solder
# Thin gauge wire
* Thin gauge wire
# [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MRS25000C7509FRP00/PPC75.0ZCT-ND/595092 Four (4) 75 Ohm resistors, the lowest tolerance possible].
* [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MRS25000C7509FRP00/PPC75.0ZCT-ND/595092 Four (4) 75 Ohm resistors, the lowest tolerance possible].
# [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nichicon/USR1C221MDD/493-15996-ND/2539210 Four (4) 220uF/16v capacitors]
* [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nichicon/USR1C221MDD/493-15996-ND/2539210 Four (4) 220uF/16v capacitors]
# RGB output port (any port will work, just make sure you pick a port with a matching RGB cable).
* RGB output port (any port will work, just make sure you pick a port with a matching RGB cable).


RGB Mod:
== Instructions ==


Start by removing the top cover:  Remove the two torx screws on each side and the top three screws in back: <br>[[File:CDiRGB01.jpg]]
# Start by removing the top cover:  Remove the two torx screws on each side and the top three screws in back: <br> [[File:CDiRGB01.jpg]]
# Next, remove the outer screws that contain the expansion socket.  These screws were one size larger torx than the case screws: <br> [[File:CDiRGB02.jpg]]
# Before you can remove the expansion socket, remove the two screws on top, then pull up from the area by the top screws to release the socket: <br> [[File:CDiRGB04.jpg]]
# You'll find the Sony CXA chip underneath the expansion slot: <br> [[File:CDiRGB05.jpg]]
# Solder R, G, B and CSYNC (please see the note about csync below) directly to the chip, as shown here: <br> [[File:CDiRGB06.jpg]]
# Here's the actual chip diagram, in case you're interested (click for full-sized): <br> [[File:CDiRGB07.jpg]]
# Next, choose a mounting location for your RGB port.  It's recommended to use an 8-pin MiniDIN and mounted it where the RF adapter went, allowing the mod to be 100% reversible, without any cutting at all. <br> [[File:CDiRGB11.jpg]]
# Run all four video lines to the output.  Make sure each line has a 220uF/16v capacitor on the end, as well as a [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MRS25000C7509FRP00/PPC75.0ZCT-ND/595092 75ohm] resistor on each line as well. <br> [[File:CDiRGB12.jpg]]
# Find a ground point to solder to your connector.  There's no "special" place to get ground, anywhere will do (just verify with your multimeter).
# If your RGB connector routes audio through it, wire that in as well: <br> [[File:CDiRGB13.jpg]]


Next, remove the outer screws that contain the expansion socket.  These screws were one size larger torx than the case screws: <br> [[File:CDiRGB02.jpg]]
Results: <br> [[File:CDiRGB14.jpg]]
 
Before you can remove the expansion socket, remove the two screws on top, then pull up from the area by the top screws to release the socket: <br> [[File:CDiRGB04.jpg]]
 
You'll find the Sony CXA chip underneath the expansion slot: <br> [[File:CDiRGB05.jpg]]
 
Solder R, G, B and CSYNC (please see the note about csync below) directly to the chip, as shown here: <br> [[File:CDiRGB06.jpg]]
 
Here's the actual chip diagram, in case you're interested (click for full-sized): <br> [[File:CDiRGB07.jpg]]
 
Next, choose a mounting location for your RGB port.  It's recommended to use an 8-pin MiniDIN and mounted it where the RF adapter went, allowing the mod to be 100% reversible, without any cutting at all. <br> [[File:CDiRGB11.jpg]]
 
Run all four video lines to the output.  Make sure each line has a 220uF/16v capacitor on the end, as well as a [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MRS25000C7509FRP00/PPC75.0ZCT-ND/595092 75ohm] resistor on each line as well. <br> [[File:CDiRGB12.jpg]]
 
Find a ground point to solder to your connector.  There's no "special" place to get ground, anywhere will do (just verify with your multimeter).
 
If your RGB connector routes audio through it, wire that in as well: <br> [[File:CDiRGB13.jpg]]
 
Conclusion:
 
The CDi is pretty much the worst console ever made...but at least you can "enjoy" it in RGB! <br> [[File:CDiRGB14.jpg]]

Revision as of 17:01, 3 July 2022

As long as your NTSC CDi has the Sony CXA chip, this mod will work.  PAL 220 boards should have the RGB SCART built-in.

Required Materials

You'll need a few tools for this mod:

Instructions

  1. Start by removing the top cover:  Remove the two torx screws on each side and the top three screws in back:
    CDiRGB01.jpg
  2. Next, remove the outer screws that contain the expansion socket.  These screws were one size larger torx than the case screws:
    CDiRGB02.jpg
  3. Before you can remove the expansion socket, remove the two screws on top, then pull up from the area by the top screws to release the socket:
    CDiRGB04.jpg
  4. You'll find the Sony CXA chip underneath the expansion slot:
    CDiRGB05.jpg
  5. Solder R, G, B and CSYNC (please see the note about csync below) directly to the chip, as shown here:
    CDiRGB06.jpg
  6. Here's the actual chip diagram, in case you're interested (click for full-sized):
    CDiRGB07.jpg
  7. Next, choose a mounting location for your RGB port.  It's recommended to use an 8-pin MiniDIN and mounted it where the RF adapter went, allowing the mod to be 100% reversible, without any cutting at all.
    CDiRGB11.jpg
  8. Run all four video lines to the output.  Make sure each line has a 220uF/16v capacitor on the end, as well as a 75ohm resistor on each line as well.
    CDiRGB12.jpg
  9. Find a ground point to solder to your connector.  There's no "special" place to get ground, anywhere will do (just verify with your multimeter).
  10. If your RGB connector routes audio through it, wire that in as well:
    CDiRGB13.jpg

Results:
CDiRGB14.jpg